Each week, The Scene offers new places to visit outside of the Northwest D.C. bubble in Out of Northwest. This week: NaiNai's Noodle and Dumpling Bar in Silver Spring, Maryland.
There are certain human instincts, which extend beyond the boundaries of cultural differences and geography. It’s easy to say that for most of us, thoughts about our grandmothers conjure up memories of joyful family gatherings, warm hugs and lots of food.
In China, a grandmother, or NaiNai, makes traditional dishes like steamed, savory, stuffed buns called Bao, and aromatic soups brimming with hand-rolled noodles, making us all wish we could experience the flavors of China's home-cooking in a matter of seconds. Instead, restaurant owners Joanne and Julie Liu have found a way to share the memories of their own grandmother’s cooking by opening NaiNai’s Noodle and Dumpling Bar in Silver Spring, Maryland.
The sisters are bringing the homemade, slow-cooked aspects of their traditional Asian meals to a fast-casual restaurant setting. NaiNai’s menu boasts hand-rolled noodles and a variety of rotating, gourmet vegetable side dishes like spicy bamboo shoots and plum pickles, but the décor is a harsh contradiction to the inviting food descriptions with bright lighting and cold metal chairs. The only warm touch is the wall of pictures of Joanne and Julie’s grandmother, as well as pictures of customers' grandmothers that have been collected since the restaurant's opening.
PHOTO BY LAUREN STAEHLE
The menu is a step up from typical fast-casual lunch spots and a much-needed departure from popular, hole-in-the-wall Chinese take out restaurants. Six small plates, like Chinese BBQ-marinated squid skewers serve as appetizers. Then comes the Bao, or steamed buns, filled with meaty mixtures like smoked pork belly or Korean beef. The Ni Hao Bao, with braised five spice duck and carrot slaw, was exactly what I hoped for as a Bao novice. The fluffy bun was perfectly chewy, but not too doughy to overshadow the rich, stewed duck. The small plates range in price from $3.95 to $6.50, and the Bao are served in pairs for $7.95-- an excellent choice for a quick, portable lunch.
NaiNai's Ni Hao bao.
PHOTO BY LAUREN STAEHLE
The dumplings are a bit of a hit-or-miss, as some lack flavor and others satisfy with rich, juicy fillings. The Year of the Dragon dumpling, with shrimp, scallops and whitefish was off-putting in both texture and taste. Similarly, the vegetarian Year of the Rabbit dumpling, filled with mushrooms, bamboo, bok choy and tofu, lacked seasoning and was overwhelmed with a thick dough. The real dumpling winners are the Year of the Ox and Year of the Pig, which boast flavorful beef and pork fillings. You have the option of ordering six, nine or 12 dumplings for approximately $6.50, $8.50 and $10.50. NaiNai’s doesn’t skimp on the stuffings, and offers a hefty amount of dough per dumpling, so an order definitely packs a wallop for one.
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NaiNai's Year of the Ox and Year of the Pig dumplings.
PHOTO BY LAUREN STAEHLE
The final category on the menu is the fresh, hand-rolled noodles. The Muay Thai Noodles with shrimp, red curry, tomatoes, toasted coconut and garlic were unbelievably spicy, but the flavors were well-balanced enough for me to eat through the pain. The Tipsy Noodles, a spin on the traditional Chinese drunken noodle dish, was a perfect platform for the super thick, fresh, chewy noodles they make in house and was accented with chicken, red onion, red peppers and Thai basil. I appreciated the bold flavors that I find are often lacking in noodle dishes, but I do wish there had been more of a variety of textures to offset the chewy, slippery noodles. These heartier dishes will still only cost you between $9.95 and $12.95, and will certainly feed at least two if ordered alongside dumplings and bao.
Overall, NaiNai’s Noodle and Dumpling Bar is worth a visit for the unique Asian flavors that you just can’t find at every Chinese restaurant. The prices are reasonable and the portions hearty, so whether you dine in or take out, you will probably have some leftover noodles to slurp up as a midnight snack later on. When you go though, be sure to take a peek at the “grandmother wall.” It instantly makes you feel connected to the inspiration behind the whole restaurant, and fills you with that nurtured feeling you get from being fed at grandmother’s house.
How to Get There
Metro: Silver Spring Metro stop, Red Line
Address: 1200 East-West Hwy., Silver Spring/Takoma Park, MD 20910
