BUL, a new Adams Morgan restaurant specializing in Korean street food, comes from the creators of popular Sakuramen, a ramen joint only a few doors up the street. Even though the establishment opened in December, BUL is sure to follow in Sakuramen’s packed-to-capacity path — but for different reasons.
Owner Jonathan Cho said the name Bul means “fire” in Korean. It’s the influence of fire that gives BUL its kick and inspires the dishes Cho is proud to cook
“Whether we do open flame grilling or stir-fry, we are stressing the important figuration of fire in our cooking,” Cho said.
Cho’s inspiration for BUL’s distinctive menu comes from the flavors he experienced growing up in his native Korea.
“My earliest memories of eating food as a child was eating Korean comfort foods,” Cho said.
The first pojangmacha restaurant in D.C., BUL doesn’t stick to one dish, like Sakuramen. For Cho, pojangmacha means “covered tent food.” In Korea, customers on the street could sit under a tent to eat and drink.
“This restaurant is like setting up a kielbasa stand and going one step further,” Cho said.
Though ramen isn’t Korean, the dish gave Cho a gateway to the District’s taste buds.
“Ramen noodles started out as lamien noodles in China, made out of wheat,” Cho said.
It was only due to the combined elements of feeding Japan’s devastated post-WWII population and the innovation of instant-ramen by Momofuku Ando that ramen became a national symbol of Japanese cuisine. Now that Japanese dish is a hit in D.C.
The popularity of Sakuramen is why Cho decided to open BUL nearby.
“We wanted our customers to be familiar with what we’re serving and eat some good quality food, have a good experience,” Cho said. “We want them to get a bit of a street feel, not only just to drink but to eat.”
PHOTO BY EAN MARSHALL/THE EAGLE
The two-floor space stays true to Cho’s intentions with a mural of a street scene in the entrance. As for getting your foot in the door, its worth making an online reservation, as its the only way to get at the crowded restaurant. I started out my venture with the three chicken meatball appetizer ($3.50) served on a skewer. The meatballs are glazed in a soy-base house marinade, which enhances the flavor and texture of the meat.
The mixed tofu salad ($8.50), which consists of tofu, tomatoes, bean sprouts and mixed greens, is a nice blend. The tofu squares have a pillowy texture that dissolves in your mouth. Both the tomatoes and bean sprouts are crunchy, with the tomatoes boasting a rich flavor, especially dipped in the plum sauce dressing on the side.
But the best is saved for last with the D.C. kalbi ssam ($24). The kalbi ssam is a Korean-style barbecued beef short ribs marinated in soy. The kalbi is a sweet dish that leaves a distinct beefy taste. The beef itself is tender, though because the dish comes with bones, it can be hard to tear off the chunks that are palatable, especially with only chopsticks. The sticky rice that comes as a side along with some greens offers a nice balance of palate from the beef flavor.
“I hope my customers are getting a bit of a street feel when they eat my food,” Cho said.
Address: 2431 18th St NW.
Metro: Dupont Circle Metro Stop, Red Line
Bus: 96 Metrobus.
